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Jewish jewelry

Jewelry has been a part and parcel of the ‘Jewish Culture’ since the biblical era. The tradition of putting on the jewelry, both-as a symbol as well as an embellishment has been mentioned in Bible. But now, the trend has changed. Jewish people wear jewelries to depict attachment towards the religion, and as amulets and talismans.

The Star of David, known as ‘Magen David’ in Hebrew is recognized as the symbol of Judaism. It was practiced in Israel during the Roman Empire, but came to be linked with Judaism only later. The Star of David used to be put outside the synagogues in the 17th century, as a mark of identification. However, there are no evidences as to why this symbol was chosen for this purpose. Today, Star of David is recognized universally by the Jews. The flag of Israel bears this symbol and equivalent of Red Cross is called ‘the Magen David Adom’ (In Hebrew, red means ‘Adom’.) in Israel. The Star of David is equivalent to a ‘Cross’ worn by Christians.

Another prominent symbol utilized in Jewish jewelry is ‘Hamsa’, better known as the ‘Hamesh Land’. The Hamsa can be described as the symbol which bears a hand with three raised fingers, and at times, two thumbs symmetrically arranged. The five fingers symbolize Torah’s five books. The symbol ‘Chai’ prominently seen on necklaces, is, actually the word ‘chai’, which means ‘living’ in Hebrew. This word has a Godly meaning. As per gematrian system, the summation of Chai letters comes out to be 18. It is believed that giving donations in ‘multiples of eighteen’ brings God’s blessings in abundance.

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Lac Jewelry

Lac is a material found in forests. It is usually used to make costume jewelry now, but in the ancient times, it was used for manufacturing villas as well. Lac is found only in India. Most of the lac is used to decorate the homes, and the discarded lac is utilized for making bangle cores. Lac ornaments are normally worn by Bihar tribes such as Bhumij, Munda, Mo, Oraon, and Santal. Toddlers, lampshades, serving bowls, push carts and nose rings are made from lac.

The bangles of lac consist of an inner-core that has a covering of thin layer of superior quality lac. Core lac, when mixed with a material similar to white clay, strengthens the bangle. The heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding of the entire parched ingredients takes place repeatedly and dough like mass is formed. This mass is heated and shaped further and the expansion of the lac takes place in lieu of bargained diameter. This results in thickening of bangle. A tool (flat-shaped) is used to roll the bangle across the flat surface which gives a proper thickness to the bangle. The shaping is done by suppressing the length of lac into grooves (colored) on every side of the mould. The lac takes the shape of the groove into which it is forced. Some of the accompaniments used are glass beads, flower shaped mirrors decorative wire, etc. They have gold foil decorated on the, to enhance their beauty.

International markets of lac

Lac is exported to USA and many countries of UK.

Popularity: 12%

Modern jewelry

The movement regarding modern jewelry began in late 40s which marked the end of the World War II. The interest in leisurely and artistic pursuits was renewed. The movement was attributed to Georg Jensen’s works, in particular and works by other designers who conceptualized wearable art. The arrival of new substances, like Precious Metal Clay (PMC), plastics and different coloring techniques, had given rise to many new styles. Harvesting of improved pearls was carried out by Kokichi Mikimoto and artificial gemstones such as moissanite were developed, which made jewelry quite affordable by the localites.

Artisans like ‘Robert Lee Morris’ spearheaded the ‘Jewelry as art’ movement at that time in UK. It was carried further by Anoush Waddington. The initial 21st century witnessed the emergence of bling-bling jewelry style, publicized by rap and hip-hop artists.

The 20th century later saw the mixture of European proposition combined with oriental techniques like Mokume-gane. The other innovations include hydraulic die forming, fold-forming, anti-clastic raising, shell forms, anodizing of reactive metal, photoetching, PMC, use of CAD/CAM. The Metropolitan Museum is a home to all these forms of jewelry. About 17 periodicals of United States depict information about beaded jewelry alone. The other periodicals state the resources, low investment cost, and accessibility of hand made embellishments. Artisan jewelry would continue to be both, a profession and a hobby in the years to come. A set of artisan jewelry is found in Pforzheim Germany at the ‘Schmuck Museum’. Some of the famous art jewelers in the past include Man Ray, Picasso, and Calder.

Popularity: 12%

Jewelry during the Renaissance

European jewelry was highly revised during the renaissance. At the dawn of 17th century, the increase in trade and exploration led to the availability of various gemstones. Initially, silver and gold dominated the European market, but renaissance witnessed the emergence of precious stones with their settings. Cheapside Hoard was the perfect example of such stones. It was a jewel found in London at the time of ‘Commonwealth’, but disappeared with the passage of time. It was again discovered in 1912. It enclosed Colombian emerald, Brazil’s amazonite, topaz, Sri Lanka’s chrysoberyl, spinel, and iolite, India’s ruby, lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, Turquoise from Persia, peridot from Red Sea, and opal, amethyst and garnet from Bohemia and Hungary. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, a merchant of that time, brought the Hope Diamond in 1660s to France.

In 1804, France got its new Emperor-Napoleon Bonaparte. He invigorated the grandeur and style of fashion and jewelry in France. Under Napoleon’s reign, parures were introduced by jewelers. They also brought diamond tiara, diamond rings, diamond earrings, diamond necklace, and a diamond brooch into the world. These sets were regularly worn by both of Napoleon’s wives. Cameo was another fashion trend revamped by Napoleon. Cameos’ demand increased by leaps and bounds after his crown had been decorated by cameo. France emerged as a hub of costume jewelry during the rule of Napoleon. The stone cameos came to be replaced by the conch shell cameos or pearl cameos, containing glass beads covered with fish scale. Bijou tiers were the jewelers working with cheaper materials and joailliers were the jewelers working with costly materials.

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Diamond Broker

There are numerous options for a diamond to be purchased. The consumer can avail of any one of the options such as discount stores in malls, autonomous retail jewelers, channels facilitating home shopping and even online shopping. Deciding which mode of shopping to resort to is as tough as making sure which diamond has to be gone for.

Hiring a diamond broker can be thought of as another alternative. The rightful diamond broker represents the concerned person and guides him/her towards the location and purchase of high quality and valuable diamonds. The broker is not the owner of diamonds, but he enacts the role of an agent. The alternatives available for him are auctions, wholesalers, diamond cutters, and private sales. This is a paid service. A stipulated fee is charged by the broker.

A diamond-broker provides a three-fold advantage: saving of time, higher quality, and lower costs. The broker brings diamonds directly to one’s doorstep. This prevents the time-wasting process of shopping around. The broker is also thoroughly knowledgeable on these counts. He can easily make out whether the diamond is reasonably priced and accurately graded. He takes the customer to the place/store where proper diamonds are obtained. This ensures the quality of the diamonds. When a broker is hired by the consumer, he/she gets the diamonds from a wholesaler, dealer, or cutter. Therefore, the consumer ends up paying fees of the broker in addition to the diamond’s wholesale cost which amounts to paying 10-20% extra of the wholesale cost. This definitely proves to be cheaper than the usual amount of 50-200% extra of the wholesale price.

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